Yes, Perth is well known for being the most remote city in the world but that hasn’t stopped the tapas craze from taking hold. The latest victim of the sometimes faddish ‘Jamón Flu’ is Andaluz Bar & Tapas, but don’t be mistaken, this venture isn’t some flippant punt. This little laneway joint (one of the city’s first) is already proving to be just the medicine to breathe a little life to Perth’s CDB.

First time operators Ryan Gregory and Carla Arevalo say that they “always hoped to develop an intimate venue which immediately made you feel comfortable and at home.” Looking at photos of chesterfields and cosy little alcoves, you wouldn’t be blamed for thinking that they’ve done just that. But no, Andaluz isn’t homely, but rather a humming wee business that has immediately captured the imagination of the city’s public.

“Our first Friday night we thought we were ready,” explains Gregory. “We completely under-estimated the effect that opening a new bar in the city would have….We got Slammed! It was a huge eye-opener.”

The team includes chef Brenton Pyke, head bartender Cameron Emerson and Bec Carter who looks after the floor. They are required to attend to the customers that are already piling into cleverly divided, ground floor of a heritage listed building licensed for 120.

“As the building itself was constructed in 1905 we always wanted decor that would fit with the era” begins Gregory. “The main lounge area is setup with leather armchairs, couches, coffee tables, lamps, candles and artwork. As we’re now in 2009 we also wanted each room to have some modern aspects so we’ve also incorporated Ulf Moritz wallpaper from Germany, Bizazza tiles from Italy, polished concrete on the main bar floor and light fittings imported from Spain.”

The feel is certainly that of a Victorian era gentleman’s den juxtaposed with the odd bit of contemporary flair. Take, for example, the detailed cornices sitting side by side to exposed metal beams or dark wood panelling up against the more minimalist grey of the walls.

Gregory and Arevalo worked closely with Perth architect Brandon Cross who assisted in the design and layout of the space. Cross has been involved in bar design in Perth for a number of years and most recently worked on a new Raffles Hotel project.

The entire Andaluz project has taken a couple of years to come to completion even with Gregory putting on the King-Gee’s and steel-caps to help with construction. “Dealing with local government and the Department of Racing, Gaming & Liquor was always going to be interesting,” he explains, “throw in the Heritage Council, as we’re located in a heritage listed building, and you’ll get just a taste of the amount of phone calls, emails and paperwork involved.”

Andaluz received the final approval from the City of Perth and the Department of Racing, Gaming & Liquor on Friday, February 13, 2009. The unlucky day for some was an enormous relief for Gregory and Arevalo.

So far Andaluz appears to be having no trouble enticing punters down the little laneway to fill the space that has been created and filling their stomachs also appears to be working with Andaluz already being the recipient of rave reviews.

“The word ‘Tapas’ has copped a bit of a beating lately and has unfortunately been used to describe a myriad of cuisines and flavours served small and priced high,” comments Gregory; “that’s not what the concept of tapas is about.”

Chef Brendon Pyke’s menu features old favourites like chorizo, olives and Jamón Ibérico, but also has more modern takes on the style like freshly shucked oysters with smoky tomato and Tabasco sorbet.

The owners explain that: “There are plenty of good cocktail and wine bars across Australia, what we have always said is ‘why can’t a high standard of food transfer into a bar environment?’ We will always be a bar first and foremost but we also aim to have an exceptionally high level of food so our guests can drink, graze and interact with their friends.”

Well, true to form the duo have employed ex-Melbourne boy, Cameron Emerson, to lead the drinks program. Sure the venue has the expected selection of sherries, cava, a couple oh-so-trendy Albarinos and the odd Spanish brew, but cocktails and premium spirits are also proving to be in demand.

Martinis and Manhattans are in demand from Andaluz’s clientele and they kick off the cocktail list coming in at inner-city prices ($20 for a 100 proof Rittenhouse Rye Manhattan). Classics are complimented by around a dozen or so contemporary cocktails like the delicious sounding Matso’s Sunset comprised of gin, Campari and Cointreau with Matso’s ginger beer and port. But, if cocktails, really aren’t your thing, premium pours on offer include Belvedere, Chivas, Makers, and Plymouth, all for $9 a nip.

“Why it will work? Perth has been crying out for venues like this for years,” says Gregory, “hopefully ours will not be the last and we can create a different style of drinking culture than Perth is generally known for.”

I’ll raise a sherry to that!

Once you’ve unpacked, experience Perth’s new lease on life (and rash of small-bar licenses) by cosying up at Andaluz (21 Howard St, (08) 9481 0092). This basement-level, wine/cocktail/tapas bar opened early this year to the delight of everyone with a yen for pre-loved leather Chesterfields, vintage Spode ware and good local ingredients. Manager Ryan Gregory and young chef Brenton Pyke (ex Just Bar) have brought some much-needed laneway style to this part of town. Jut don’t mention Melbourne...

March 13, 2009 10:00pm

21 Howard St, Perth.
9481 0092.
Open Mon-Thur 11am-midnight, Fri 11am-1am, Sat 6pm-1am

Bloody Victoria

It’s become something of a tradition here in the west to declare any legitimately good bar or restaurant “oh so Melbourne”. If a cafe makes its own pasta, suddenly it’s “very Melbourne”. Likewise, a wine bar if it has great international wines. This, of course, is nonsense. Yes, there are great bars in Victoria, but there are also some distinctly ordinary ones. What’s more important is that Perth is seeing its own bar culture emerge, one independent of east coast attachments. And the CBD’s newest bar, Andaluz, is a fine example of the trend.

City slicker

Opened a few weeks ago in the basement of the heritage-registered Parker & Parker building, Andaluz is a contemporary tapas and wine bar. Its name might be Spanish, but little else is – think dark-hued walls, a secluded stairway and ceilings with intricate cornices and exposed steel beams. The space is rather small, radiating from a central bar that partially covers a kitchen. But a multi-room format cleverly spreads the crowd. Particularly encouraging are the more secluded rooms full of Chesterfield chairs and tables.

Laneway chic

The best part, however, is a small laneway courtyard. There is something innately pleasurable about sipping a martini down the end of a narrowing brick laneway – like Alice falling into Wonderland. Or is that just me?

Stiff drinking

A penchant for hard liquor makes for a good opening to the drinks list, with a medley of excellent spirits ensuring well-executed, sophisticated night-time tipples such as Manhattans and martinis. Other more contemporary cocktails, however, are a little hit-and-miss at the moment. There’s also a small gathering of international wines by the glass and bottle, with excellent wine glasses to match.

Fave rave

Having already charmed the notoriously critical CBD crowd, Andaluz has dutifully been declared a favourite for inner-city social lubrication – a standing it deserves as the pinstripe and stiletto crowd begin to declare it “oh so Perth”.

The score: 4/5

It may be known as the most isolated city in the world, but beyond its vast glistening beaches and sunny disposition, Perth is becoming a hotbed of young, innovative retailers, restaurants and bars that are rivalling Australia's east coast neighbours.

From the William Street Collective's art galleries and design outlets in Northbridge and the rejuvenation of the city's laneways and arcades, to the ever-expanding culinary hub of Fremantle, this west-coast capital is becoming a lively scene for food and design lovers.

Here are some suggestions of places to visit where local talent and produce abound, and where you may find it hard to leave without your pockets feeling lighter.

Andaluz

Housed in the basement of a heritage building, Andaluz's interior is a fun, garish twist on old gentleman's club. Shiny Chesterfields are flanked by textured purple wallpaper and vintage bullfighting posters, and a stainless steel bar beams over a chequered tile and mottled polished concrete floor. Mouth-watering dishes of traditional Spanish tapas, occasionally reinvented, can be sampled with wine from 12pm most days.

21 Howard St, Perth. 9481 0092. Licensed. Open Monday to Thursday 11am-midnight, Friday 11am-1am, Saturday, 6pm to 1am. No bookings taken.

ANDALUZ hits you right in the face but with its east coast feel. I’m not going to mention the M word. Instead I’ll head straight to Spain and talk about sharing superb chorizo sausage over low tables while sipping Segura Vidas sparkling cava. I’ll focus on freshly shucked oysters while I think about another overworked concept – tapas.

My party slurps from the shell the smoky tomato and Tabasco sorbet before plying our mouths with the smooth balls of brine.

While leaning back in luxurious leather we poke forks into grilled Exmouth tiger prawns and then feel the tastebuds tango to Moorish spices. Fleshy green olives and tiny black ones packed with flavour transport us to a sun-drenched Andalusian olive grove.

We break open crisp empanadas to wafting aromas of steaming shredded braised goat and we mix it with smears of sofrito paste (garlic, parsley, green pepper and onion).

Then there are the fabulous scallops – an orderly line of seared beauties sitting on rounds of confit made from Berkshire pork cheeks, which we mix with Pedro Ximenex just to complete the meal in a mouthful. It all unravels in a seamless segue of Brenton Pyke-prepared dishes (mostly under the $10 mark) as we are guided effortlessly through it all by Bec, the waitress who knows when to suggest the next dish and when to steer clear.

Owners Ryan Gregory and Carla Arevalo call this style of eating tapas – in keeping with Carla’s Spanish heritage. But, while the term has come to encompass any old serve of greasy salt and pepper squid and factory cut chips, here tapas covers inner-city serial grazing at its comfortable best.

Comfort? Barcelona meets Belgravia in leather couches, plush carpet and huge gilt mirrors in the overhauled basement of the old heritage-listed Parker & Parker building. But there’s little stuffiness despite the gentleman’s club look.

It’s dimly lit and has enough quiet nooks to provide romantic tête-à-têtes or business meetings and, in the laneway alfresco area at twilight, people are choosing cocktails or wines by the glass.

We finish with a selection of cheeses – two French and two Spanish – for $25, served attractively with quince paste and honeyed walnuts.

The bill comes to $148.50 for three, not counting a bottle of wine, which curiously didn’t make it to the final tally – a reason to go back.

We come away feeling much lighter than after ploughing through a three-course meal.

Other newcomers in the city are trying hard with this style of dining but just getting things wrong. Here they manage to get it just right.

Barcelona? Melbourne? London? No, it’s Perth – at last.

Love: The smears on the plate, the oysters, the little bliss bomb of flavours in the scallop dish
Loathe: It’s taken so long to get here

Food: 4/5
Ambience: 4/5
Service: 4/5
Drinks: 4/5
Rating: 16/20

This small bar in Perth has been on our radar for a few months now but they’ve been so damn busy, it’s taken a while to get them in Openings. Quickly adopted by the starved-for-anything-decent inner city crowd, this cosy bar features an enviable courtyard at the end of a brick laneway.

First-time bar owners Ryan Gregory and Carla Arevalo drew on Ryan’s 15 years in the hospitality industry and Carla’s Spanish heritage to dream up their homely tapas bar (with strong Victorian influences) with the help of Architect and Designer Brandon Cross. Heading up the bar is ex-Melbourne Bartender Cameron Emmerson who worked closely with the owners to develop the carefully conceived drinks selection.

The list features a handful of wines with a strong international focus with over half available by the glass. There is also handy list of classic and contemporary cocktails, international bottled beers and a premium rail of first pour spirits including Belvedere, Chivas, Makers and Plymouth at just $9 a nip. On the food front there is a great mix of contemporary and classic tapas dishes constructed by local Chef Brenton Pyke in conjunction with the owners.

Graze while you drink

Since it was introduced in 2007, Western Australia’s small bar legislation has quietly got on with redefining how we eat out.

Instead of treating wine as an adjunct to food, small bars allow us to consider food as an adjunct to booze.

Without the must-ordera- substantial-meal bogeyman at our shoulder, we find ourselves free to graze a little. To play.

The just-opened Andaluz on the city’s Howard Street is a case in point. In the kitchen is one of Perth’s finest young chefs, Brenton Pyke.

Brenton showed what he could do at his previous gig at Just Wine Bar in Como, where his clean, precise food delivered full-on flavour finished with large dollops of finesse.

Hairy McPool and I test-drive Andaluz on a warm mid-week evening. Set well back from the road and reached by a narrow laneway, it’s only half-full and humming away gently.

This is a relief. I’d visited the previous Friday and could hardly get down the laneway for after-work party animals drinking red wine out of very big glasses. There was even a bouncer.

But tonight the light, airy dining area is a much gentler proposition, its tables small and unbookable. This makes sense given the vibe of the place. Andaluz is altogether more bar then restaurant.

Deeper in, a few wellplaced tables in the back vault and lounge room deliver a more intimate and formal dining experience. These tables can’t be booked either. I think this is a shame.

Hairy and I order two glasses of something unpronounceable and get stuck in – some roasted almonds with paprika and smoked salt ($6) here, a plump sliver of white Ortiz anchovies ($8) there.

Of the dozen tapas on offer, we try five and this feels just about right, quantity-wise.

Carpaccio of black Angus beef ($10.50) is topped with crisp, spiced sourdough breadcrumbs, or migas. Every crispmeets- moist, fatty flesh mouthful is a joy.

Seared scallops with Berkshire pork cheek confit ($9.50) come with a sublimely sticky sweet Pedro Ximenez dressing and plumped-up muscatels.

Black mussels ($8) have been steamed in Manzanilla, which adds a deliciously sweet nuttiness to the rich, fishy juices.

Also on offer is Spain’s famous Jamon Iberico ($25), a range of good cheeses accompanied by quince paste and honeyed walnuts ($7 per cheese) and four lovely puds.

Service wise, our waitress knows her stuff and puts up with Hairy’s shameless flirting with good grace.

For this, and for a young chef with this much passion and this much skill, I give thanks.

At a Glance:

Rating
Food: 5
Service: 4
Ambience: 4
Value for money: 5

Style: small bar

Wine: sourced with imagination and style. Could do with a few more Euro-whites by the glass.

Owners: Ryan Gregory and

Carla Arevalo

Chef: Brenton Pyke

Feel: intimate

Wheelchair access: yes

All in all: Edgily-crafted tapas and funky European varietals add up to the best small bar food experience in Perth.

July gourmet news

The edgy eats and funky European varietals at Howard Street newcomer Andaluz add up to the best small bar food experience in Perth. Around 18 tapas are on offer, including carpaccio of Black Angus beef with migas, seared scallops with Berkshire pork cheek confit and a small bunch of lovely desserts. The best tables lurk at the back, tucked into nooks and crannies in the building’s old vault room.